Alpsteinmarathon – MSL opening season

I started managing my calendar better but only after one screwup. I agreed to go climbing on the same dates with two different people (who don’t know one another). I “fixed” this just by going with Helena to whom I said yes earlier.

The plan was to do some mountaineering maybe or climbing in Mello or somewhere further, but the weather did not want to cooperate. Friday was good in Alpstein, and we agreed to do Alpsteinmarathon which was on my list since last year.

I left Zurich shortly before 5am to pick up Helena around 5.10am from Rapperswil. A drive with a some short deviations due to cows being brought to the fields got us to the parking lot in Brulisau shortly before 7am. Quick packing and off we go to Bollenwees. I dunno why but I had an impression that the long walk from parking lot to Bollenwees was flat… I was completely wrong. With brisk walk the route that yellow signs mark for 2h20min we’ve done in 1h05min. Another maybe 30min to the start of the climb… kinda…

Przemek… have you been thinking about me lately? It took us another at least 1h to find the route, for my defence, the description in the topo and the drawing was just misleading.

We’ve started climbing around 10.30am and got to the top at 6.20pm so not bad.

The route itself is great but not stunning, the easy pitches offer still quite good climbing, the harder pitches offer a few bouldery moves. It’s basically 840m in 21 pitches (a nice season opening :D), one pitch being 6b+ the rest easier. Bolting is rather sparse, but taking cams does not help much, as on easy pitches it;s not necessary and on the harder one there are almost no placements. We took Totem’s: blue, purple and green and a set of offset nuts but placed a cam maybe twice. My mental is still not where it should be, need to work on that…

Walkoff was OK, although we needed to go around a few snowfields as we were both in soft approach shoes.

Got to the car, ate dinner … and a very sad thing… I injured Koala getting out of the parking lot :-(. Well… life…

Photos.

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