First we went with Masha to Dammazwillinge. I wanted to go for the whole weekend in that region, but you get what you can.
Together with Iwona and Piotrek we left Ruschlikowice on Friday afternoon and drove to Tatsch. It took me ages to pack, but we used another 1h of daylight to get to the glacier moraine and set up a tent. That was a good move, in the morning after breakfast it took us another 1h30min to get to the base of Dammazwillinge. The wall looks pretty amazing.
Since we wanted to climb both routes from “Dreams of Switzerland” guidebook on that face, we started with the harder one (Paradis Pedru, 6b, 250m). Alternating leads gave each of us a 6b pitch, and really good climbing. First set of rappels got us to the ground pretty quickly, with only one (sic!) rope stuck. Well only one cause the second set of raps, after the second route (SW Pfiller, 5c) we got the rope stuck twice, and once in a way that we needed to climb something like 40m back up. Well… lojf :-).
We got to the tent at around 9pm, good enough to grab dinner and go to sleep.
In the morning Masha was to meet Jarek and I was to meet Piotrek. First happened the second did not.
We got a bit of missunderstanding, but eventually I was quite happy I don’t have to climb Conquest (6b oblig) as I was a bit tired. Instead we went to Mangolyto – an pretty AWESOME 6a+ on Winterstock. We got some adventures with Italians, but in general the climb was really good and we were pretty quick.