The entire week was stormy and unpredictable, and the same was the weekend. Initially I wanted to go to Salbitschijen, but Bedretto / Piansecco looked slightly better in terms of weather predictions. That is what we decided upon. We left on Friday evening, after work, and slept more or less in the place I stayed with Iza two years ago. “More or less” cause we parked at the same spot, but put up tents in totally different place as there was still snow, in the place I initially planned.
We left decently early a bit after 7am to get to the wall and start climbing around 9.30. Good that I was there before as figuring out where routes start with that much snow was not easy at all.
On Saturday we climbed Herbstwind (6a+/b, 400m, 12pitches). Alternating leads. I encouraged Masha to place gear even if not necessary just to practice. Climbing and raps went decently quick, averaging on a bit below 30min per pitch. (Strava ascent, Strava descent). Climbing is really good in higher part of the route, first half is 50-50.
For Sat->Sun night we found much nicer spot, ate pasta, drunk wine and decided to climb Panini on Sunday. It’s another classic from “Dreams of Switzerland” guidebook. Again a lot of snow on the approach, so we started climbing towards the end of first pitch. Masha lead the “first” (which in practice was second :-)) pitch, 6a, which was IMHO the most challenging on the route. The next one was done by me, and I basically decided to do it trad instead of using placed bolts. The route is pretty well bolted, also in totally unnecessary places. Climbing is in a good quality rock, last two pitches, while in great rock, present lest demanding climbing.
On the way down Masha slid on the snow and made it much faster down, I walked safely the steepest section, to become reluctant lower and slid as well. It made Masha really happy I think ;-). (Strava descent)
And there was no rain at all !
Overall really good weekend.